Alpine Program – Ishinca / Tocllaraju / Huascaran

Private transfer in the morning to the bus station. Take a comfortable first class ride to Huaraz (approximately 8 hour journey). Move into your hotel and relax.

Orientation meeting in your hotel in the morning to review your itinerary, answer questions, and finalize logistical details of the trip. Head out on a 4-hour acclimatization hike to the Puka Ventana (“red window”) outside of town, where you’ll get great views of the entire Cordillera Blanca range from North the South. Spend the night in your Huaraz hotel.

Day hike to the turquoise waters of Laguna Churup (4500 meters), approximately 5 hours of hiking round trip. Return to Huaraz, night in hotel.

Acclimatization peak climb or snow skills, San Mateo (5150m).  Depart for Punta Olimipica in the early hours of the morning, hike 2 hours to the glacier and either climb the peak or review skills on the lower part of the glacier.  Return to Huaraz, night in hotel.

Sleep in, do some laundry, call your loved ones, even squeeze in some last minute work if you need to.  Huaraz is full of cafes, climbing walls, fun people and interesting cultural visits.  Pack your bag and prep your mind, rest your body and enjoy the growing anticipation of your fast approaching departure to the mountains the following morning!

Pack your bags! Drive up to the small mountain village of Pashpa where the donkeys get loaded and your group begins the 8 mile hike to the head of the Ishinca Valley. Establish base camp at 4100 m. Rest!

Ishinca Summit Day! Another Alpine start – 3:00am waking and leaving by4:00am. Ishinca’s summit push is a few hours longer then Urus’. You’ll pick your way through the delicate Andean tundra and gain the glacier around sunrise. Once on the glacier, wind your way through some impressive crevasses and up to the high saddle, then follow a summit ridge to the very top. Estimated summit time is 1:00pm and return to Base Camp by 6:00 p.m.

Rest day, skills review.

Taking your essentials, you’ll leave for the high camp of your final mountain, Tocllaraju. It usually takes about 6 hours to reach the camp at 5000 meters. Enjoy an unforgettable dinner while mesmerized by Tocllaraju’s impressive west face. Get to sleep early for the next days climb.

An early start today… wake at 12:00 midnight and after a light breakfast depart for the summit by around 2:00am. You’ll work your way across the saddle and begin the classic assent up Toclla’s north ridge. Things get steeper as you climb, with two sections of 60-80 degree snow and/or ice. Return to high camp typically around 2:00pm and after a rest and some warm food, then continue back down to base camp for dinner and sleep.

Sleep in and wake to a delicious breakfast before packing up camp and loading the donkeys for the hike out to Pashpa and return trip to Huaraz. Check into your hotel.

Rest day in Huaraz. You will be thankful for it!

Leave for the town of Musho around 10am after picking up fresh supplies. Load the donkeys and hike to the base camp of Huascaran.

Ascend on to Camp One, located on the glacier. (5100 meters)

Continue up to Camp Two, in the col between Huascaran Norte and Sur. (6000 meters)

SUMMIT DAY! Leave camp around 2:00am for the summit ascent, climbing the long southern facing ridge-line to the top of Huascaran Sur.  Descend back to the saddle and either spend the night or head back down to camp one after a break and some warm food.

Weather day, additional summit opportunity, or rest day.  Regardless of the activity of this day, you will spend the night at Camp One or lower in order to be in good position to hike out the coming morning.

Continue to descend to the trail head and return to Huaraz. Once there, you’ll check into your hotel for quite possibly the best shower of your life. Dinner that night is a celebration banquet followed by an almost guaranteed deep night’s sleep.

Last minute shopping for family and friends before departing for Lima at 11am, arriving at the airport or your hotel by 7:30pm.

Between the months of May and September, Peru experiences their dry season. During these months, the climate stays surprisingly stable and predictable. In Huaraz, you can expect temperatures between 40º F (0º C) at night and 70 º F (20º C) during the day, with occasional rain. In the mountains and at higher altitude, it will be colder.

Huaraz is located at 3100 meters (approx. 11,000 feet) above sea level. Most people who arrive from lower elevations experience some shortness of breath, dizziness, insomnia, and a loss of appetite as their bodies adjust during the first few days. All of our guided trips and courses allow for proper acclimatization prior to ascending to high altitudes. For more information, check www.high-altitude-medicine.com.

Guided Treks: With or without a backpack, hiking can be quite exhausting. The better physical condition you are in, the more you will be able to enjoy your experience. Being able to walk 4 miles in a day is the minimum requirement for all of our treks.

Guided Climbs & Courses: Mountaineering is physically demanding and require continuous physical effort. At a minimum, you should be able to run two mountain miles in 20 minutes or less and be able to walk 10 miles in one day. Embarking on a fitness regiment once you have signed up is imperative to your comfort and success on your trip.

Guided trips generally run with group sizes between four and six, however group sizes can be as big as nine; guide to client ratio depends upon specifics of trip.

Courses run with a minimum of three participants and max out at nine.

Check with your doctor regarding what vaccines are currently being recommended for travelers that are headed to Peru.

Note – Huaraz is located in the mountainous region of Peru, above 3000 meters where very few vaccinations are actually applicable.   If you do not plan on traveling to the coast or the Amazon before or after your trip, you may choose to avoid vaccines all together. Staying healthy while you are in Peru mostly involves drinking bottled water, eating at quality restaurants, and washing your hands frequently.

Traveling with large amounts of cash is not recommended. In Huaraz, there are several ATM machines which accept debit cards and more and more you can purchase goods and services with Visa and MasterCard. While in the wilderness, all of your expenses are covered, however, you will be responsible for your in-town meals & entertainment, gift buying and any ’extra’ activities you may choose to partake in.

As few Peruvians speak English, it will only enhance your experience in the country to understand a few Spanish words and try to communicate with the local people. You can study up at home before your trip, bring along a dictionary and learn a little as you go, or take a Spanish class while you are here in Huaraz! As a reassurance, many people travel in Peru without Spanish skills and get by. You can expect an English speaking staff person to help you with the language barrier during your time in Huaraz, so don’t let this discourage you.

In the last 15 years, Peru has made remarkable progress in becoming a stable and friendly place for all visitors. As a traveler, however, you will attract attention. You should be alert at all times, watch your luggage and keep your valuable items (cameras, wallets, music) on your person and as discreet as possible. You don’t want to wander around alone at night, and make sure to keep your important documents, cards, and cash with you or stored in a secure place.

Courses: Although we will have pack animals along on some of our activities, you can expect to be carrying a 20-30 kilogram (40 – 65 pound) pack during our treks and climbs.

Guided Treks: During treks and climbs, we use donkeys, llamas, or porters to transport all gear and food. We do recommend that you have a daypack to carry your personal items like cameras, water bottles, warm layers, etc…

Guided Climbs: For climbing trips when you move to terrain where donkeys cannot carry gear, you will be expected to carry a backpack with your personal items including sleeping bag, clothing, climbing equipment and personal items, typically weighing 10-15 kilograms (25-40 pounds).  We are happy to arrange porters to carry your personal kit with an additional fee.

You can expect an arranged transport from the airport in Lima to Huaraz and back on all Guided Trips & Full Service Courses. If you are spending the night in Lima, you will have your hotel room arranged and transportation to and from the hotel, airport, and bus station set. Spanish speaking ability is not required as the driver will know your trip details and ensure you are well taken care of while in the city. You can expect English speaking staff in the hotels in Lima and Huaraz.

As safety is our unquestioned priority, we cannot in any way guarantee you will get to the summit. Our certified Guides and Instructors have undergone extensive skills and emergency training, and have been hired for their impeccable safety records and attention to your well being. They will act conservatively in the interest of safety over the desire to stand on top of something. In your application, you will be asked to sign an assumption of risk form. Be sure to read it over carefully before signing. Contact us with any questions you have regarding the risks that you will be assuming.

All of our mountain guides carry a UIAGM (or equivalent) guides certificates, have avalanche training, WFR or comparable first-aid training, leadership training, speak English fluently enough to have meaningful conversations with you as well as do their job of communicating clearly in the mountains.   Both their climbing and risk-management experience in the alpine environment will surpass the level required of whatever mountain they are guiding.

Our trekking guides are of a similar profile, generally without the specific mountain qualifications although sometimes they work in both areas.  A strong knowledge of the area, culture, flora and fauna intertwined with their own personal interests and skills almost always results in an educational and highly enjoyable experience, beyond getting you from point A to B throughout the expedition.

RECOMMENDED PERSONAL EQUIPMENT LIST – MOUNTAINEERING